跟我去特雷維索 - 03 威尼托與奧德爾佐的食材 Ingredienti di Veneto e Oderzo (中/En)

ALMA畢業專題(中文/English)

跟我去特雷維索 Vieni in Treviso con me

Chapter 3 - Ingredienti di Veneto e Oderzo 威尼托與奧德爾佐的食材



在Oderzo實習時,某天上班路上,忽然看到空地上一大群羊咩咩。
室友說,因為山上太冷了,牧羊人會趕羊下山到平地避冬。
有時候還能在馬路上,看到警察幫忙指揮交通,讓羊群順利走過去。
順利走過去,意指有時候可能長達半小時的道路堵塞!
那天下班回來後,只見整片草地被羊群啃得乾乾淨淨,根本自走除草機 XD


僅次於 Emilia-Romagna 艾米利亞-羅馬涅大區,Veneto 威尼托是義大利 DOP 和 IGP 產品數量第二豐富的大區。 威尼托大區累計共申報了36件產品:DOP 18件與IGP 18件。 列表中藍色的字「可以」在特雷維索省生產紅色的品項是「只能」在特雷維索省生產

Besides Emilia-Romagna, Veneto is the second rich region in the number of DOP and IGP products. Among Veneto region, there are 36 products filed, with 18 in DOP and 18 IGP. In the list, the item with blue color “can be produced” in Treviso province, and items with red color mark are “only produced” in Treviso province.



DOP和IGP是歐盟認證標章,
用以保護與規範特定產區特定產品
以及其後製程或技法。
最右邊的
STG 則是特定傳統食譜與技法的認證。
基本上,掛上認證的產品是有利於推廣與外銷的,
故每當有一個新的產品掛上認證,就會帶動整個地區的產業發展。
但值得注意的是,有DOP和IGP認證的產品,並非絕對品質保證!



*DOP IGP產品命名模式:品名+地名,下列產品的中文名稱,我只翻譯品名方便理解。

有興趣的朋友建議直接用原文搜尋,會有比較多完整資料(或是可以私訊問我)*


『Prodotti DOP - DOP產品』


Prodotti a base di carne - 肉製品 

Prosciutto Veneto Berico-Euganeo DOP 生火腿

Salamini italiani alla Cacciatora DOP 小薩拉米

Sopressa Vicentina DOP 威尼托特有薩拉米


Pesci molluschi e crostacei - 蝦貝類

Cozza di Scardovari DOP 淡菜


Formaggi - 乳酪

Asiago DOP

Casatella Trevigiana DOP

Grana Padano DOP

Montasio DOP

Monte Veronese DOP

Piave DOP

Provolone Valpadana DOP

Taleggio DOP 


Altri prodotti di origine animale - 其他動物製品

Miele delle Dolomiti Bellunesi DOP 蜂蜜


Oli e grassi - 油脂類

Garda DOP 橄欖油

  Veneto DOP 橄欖油


Ortofrutticoli e cereali, freschi e trasformati - 新鮮蔬果穀物或製品

Aglio Bianco Polesano DOP 白蒜

Asparago Bianco di Bassano DOP 白蘆筍

Marrone di S. Zeno DOP 栗子



『Prodotti IGP - IGP產品』


Prodotti a base di carne - 肉製品

Cotechino Modena IGP 生腸

Mortadella Bologna IGP 熟肉腸

Salame Cremona IGP 薩拉米

Zampone Modena IGP 豬腳腸


Ortofrutticoli e cereali, freschi e trasformati 新鮮蔬果穀物或製品

Asparago Bianco di Cimadolmo IGP 白蘆筍

Asparago di Badoere IGP 綠蘆筍

Ciliegia di Marostica IGP 櫻桃

Fagiolo di Lamon della Vallata Bellunese IGP 豆類

Insalata di Lusia IGP 萵苣

Marrone di Combai IGP 栗子

Marroni del Monfenera IGP 栗子

Pesca di Verona IGP 桃子

Radicchio di Chioggia IGP 菊苣

Radicchio di Verona IGP 菊苣

Radicchio Rosso di Treviso IGP 菊苣

Radicchio Variegato di Castelfranco IGP 菊苣

Riso del Delta del Po IGP 米

Riso Nano Vialone Veronese IGP 米




「在這個區域、用這種方式,才能做出這樣的產品」

DOP 和 IGP 代表的是與風土和文化的認同、連結與延續
就像是台東的紅藜與東勢的巨峰葡萄 十分浪漫


除了這些產品,這些地區還有一些其他美好的食材,如 Castraure di Sant'erasmo  聖伊拉斯莫島 朝鮮薊初生花苞。在早春看到新鮮的朝鮮薊初生花苞,學習如何清理與烹調,然後將其轉化成美麗的菜餚,這是我最珍貴的回憶之一。 

Besides these products, there are also some other beautiful ingredients in these area, like “Castraure di Sant’erasmo”. It was one of my treasured memories, seeing castraure in the early spring, learning how to clean it and cook it, then transforming it into beautiful dish.



成熟的朝鮮薊是需要經過繁複的處理、煮熟後才能吃的,
但是初生花苞非常嫩,撥掉外層後可以直接當沙拉吃。
在Gellius實習時,主廚將新鮮Castraura上一點油醋,
搭配上煎扇貝與白巧克力美乃滋,再以一兩片炸過的Castraura搭配。
Mama Mia!


我在實習時住的區域,不光有這些眾所周知的食材,還有一些平時人們不注意的東西,比如野菜。 據《La Cucina della della tradizione Opitergino-Mottense》一書記載,Oderzo 奧德爾佐地區的人們會使用的野菜有下列幾種:

In the area where I stayed, not just these well-known ingredients, but also some other thing that people usually not paying attention to, like wild herbs. According to the book “La Cucina della tradizione Opitergino-Mottense”, there are several wild herbs people used in Oderzo area.


Erbe selvatiche 野菜


•  Luppolo Selvatico / bruscandoli - hop  野生啤酒花

•  Asparagina - wild asparagus 野生蘆筍

•  Gittone delle Macchie / Silene Dioica - red campion 紅坎蓬/紅蠅子草

          Ortica - nettle 蕁

•  Silene / Vulgaris - bladder campion 白玉草

•  Tarassaco - dandelion 蒲公英

•  Rosolaccio / Roseline / Papavero Selvatico - corn poppy 雛罌粟/虞美人

•  Radicchio di campo 野菊苣


這些野菜常用於清湯、燉飯、蔬菜燉湯、烘蛋和沙拉。 它們主要從春初(三月左右)開始生長並延續到整個夏季。 

These wild herbs are often used in soup, risotto, minestrone, frittata and salad. They mainly start growing on the beginning of spring (around March) and through all the summer.



實習的午休都會來一杯咖啡,
然後努力讀原文書、寫期末報告 QQ
我就是那種下午還是想喝卡布奇諾的亞洲人~
(義大利人只有早餐會喝)


在威尼斯時期,奧德爾佐被稱為 Ob-terg,意指「市場」。 在羅馬時期,則被稱為Opitergium。 奧德爾佐平原地區,廣泛種植各種蔬菜,如:大蒜、洋蔥、包心菜、黃瓜、豆類、豌豆、茴香、茄子、甜椒、蘿蔔、塊根類、南瓜、櫛瓜、番茄和各種沙拉葉。 在奧德爾佐種植的最重要的食材之一是  Asparagi Bianchi di Cimadolmo DOP 奇馬多爾莫白蘆筍

In Venetic period, Oderzo was called “Ob-terg”, and it means “market”. During the Roman time, it was called Opitergium. In the plain area of Oderzo cultivated with all kinds of vegetables like: garlics, onions, cabbages, cucumbers, beans, peas, fennels, eggplants, bell peppers, radishes, roots, pumpkins, zucchini, tomatoes and all kinds of salad leaves. One of the most important ingredient growing in Oderzo is “Asparagi Bianchi di Cimadolmo DOP”. 


不僅僅是蔬菜,因為離山不遠,來自樹叢和森林的食材在奧德爾佐地區也很重要。這個地區的飲食文化,傳統上與淡水魚(來自鄰近河流和一些小湖)聯繫在一起。因著傳統天主教文化,它在 Quaresima 四旬期/大齋期、Avvento 降臨節、Sacre Tempora 聖天節、Grandi Vigilie 平安夜,和每個星期五為人們提供食物。

*傳統天主教在這些日子裡,是吃魚不吃肉的*

Not just vegetables, not far from mountains, the ingredients from the woods and forests are also important in Oderzo area. The food culture in these area traditionally more connected sweat water fish (from river and some tiny lakes). It provided the food for general people during Quaresima, Avvento, Sacre Tempora, Grandi Vigilie and every Friday, which links to the tradition of the church.


中世紀後,受「威尼斯共和國」的影響,海鮮文化被貴族們從威尼斯和海邊一起帶進了內陸平原上。但由於海產運輸困難,只有社會經濟地位高的人,才有機會享用這些食材。既有農村料理、又有貴族美食,有來自內陸的滋味、也有海岸線的珍饈。畢竟,奧德爾佐的飲食文化與土地和歷史有著高度的聯繫。

Since the middle age and by the influence of the “Repubblica di Venezia”, the seafood culture was brought with the noblest from Venezia and seaside into the plain land. Due to the difficulty of transporting seafood, only people with high social-economic status had the chances to enjoy these ingredients.  After all, the food culture in Oderzo area is highly linked with the land and history, it keeps both field cuisine and noble cuisine, inland cuisine and coastline cuisine. 



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跟我去特雷維索 Vieni in Treviso con me系列是我於義大利國際廚藝學院 ALMA La Scuola Internazionale di Cucina Italiana 的期末畢業專題全文。依照學校要求,國際畢業生必須深入研究實習地區的飲食文化(地理、歷史、風土、食材、食譜等等)完成英文為主、義大利文為輔的書面報告,並通過期末口頭面試,以及完成另一項菜單設計專題,方可畢業。此系列原始撰稿語言為英文,並以翻譯軟體翻譯成中文再做潤飾。文章中間我會穿插一些照片,搭配上我現在的想法以及一些基礎知識補充,讓大家更好閱讀!那你準備好了嗎?跟我一起去特雷維索吧!

 

The series "Follow me to Treviso / Vieni in Treviso con me" is the full text of my final graduation project at the ALMA La Scuola Internazionale di Cucina Italiana. According to school requirements, international graduates must conduct in-depth research on the food culture of the internship area (geography, history, terroir, ingredients, recipes, etc.), complete a written report in English, supplemented by Italian, and then pass an oral interview at the end of the term, as well as complete additional menu design topic, can be graduated. 

The original manuscript language of this series was English, and it was translated into Chinese with translation software and then embellished. I will intersperse some photos in the middle of the article, with my current thoughts and some basic knowledge supplements, so that everyone can read better! (But, sorry for the English reader, I will only write those in Chinese.) Are you ready then?  Come to Treviso with me!

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